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March 9, 2003.
One of the most
delightful aspects of having out-of-town guests is that we get to show off this
beautiful place we have chosen as our home, this place whose people have been
gracious enough to accept us in their midst. Last week, I
decided to go on vacation …in Puerto Vallarta. I hadn't done that in years,
too many years now that I think about it. It started out with me acting as the
well-informed tourist guide showing a first-time visitor around town, but I'm
not sure who ended up having more fun, my Brazilian friend or me. I got to do
things I hadn't done for ages. Yes, of course I always have out of town visitors
who come spend a week or two down here during the winter season. Some are friends
and some are friends of friends. Some stay with me and some don't, but even when
they do, I usually introduce them to the fridge, show them where I keep the dishes,
give them a key to the house, arm them with a good map of the town and get them
going on their way. (I usually have too much work to do to escort them.) But this
time was different, I decided that it was time to bring myself up to date with
all the changes this town has undergone over the last few years. We
walked the length and breadth of Vallarta, from North to South and from the beach
all the way up the Cuale River, with every place in between. I realized (once
again) what an incredibly beautiful place this is. There are discoveries to be
made at every turn. Why, just a few blocks up the river there are so many different
species of birds bathing in the cool waters that you'd think you're in the middle
of a bird sanctuary whereas in fact you're right in the middle of town! There
are little shops and restaurants in the most unseemly spots, and great food to
be had at all those roadside stands! I had the time to stop and admire all the
beautiful ironwork on some of the houses we passed, and the flowers cascading
exuberantly from all the little balconies overlooking the tiniest, narrowest streets. We
also noticed that the Museum on the Isla Cuale is still closed. What a pity! This
is the only museum in Vallarta and although the representatives of Mexico's National
Institute of Anthropology and History promised that it would be remodeled and
fixed up by last December, no funds have been received to date and the artifacts
were taken away to Guadalajara for storage in the "interim." Over 300
people used to visit that lovely little place every day when it was open. Naturally,
I also took my friend south along the postcard-like panoramic road that follows
the coastline of the bay, all the way up and down Conchas Chinas, to Mismaloya,
to the impressive Le Kliff Restaurant, to Boca de Tomatlan and finally to Chico's
Paradise. It never fails. Visitors are left speechless at the natural beauty that
surrounds them at every turn. No wonder so many of them return never to leave
again. In the evenings, I noticed something that made
me feel a little ambivalent. Some -if not most- of my favorite restaurants, places
I wanted to take my friend to, were full. It didn't matter that the owners knew
me, it didn't matter that I am a "local", they were full. As simple
as that. I was disappointed of course, but at the same time I was delighted for
them. And I guess I can understand why they cannot take reservations past a certain
hour. After all, this is not just any big city where restaurant owners can take
reservations with the knowledge that "average diners" who come in at
a particular time will be gone X hours later. Here, visitors enjoy themselves
so much that they just stay on and on and order another after-dinner drink and
chat some more and enjoy themselves some more. I know. It's happened to me so
many times, where I realize that we're the last people in the place and the waiters
are exhausted and they just wish that we would leave already. There
are many other things I wish we would have had time to do, things like going out
for a day of whale watching with the oceanographers of Open Air Expeditions, a
sunset cruise aboard the Marigalante, an evening of entertainment in the main
square with the live band that plays there in the kiosk, swimming with the dolphins
at Splash, walks along the endless beaches on the north shore, etc. etc. I could
on and on, but one week just isn't enough to do everything one can do in and around
Vallarta. Neither are two weeks for that matter. I've been here for nearly nine
years and obviously, I haven't seen it or done it all yet… Oh,
yes, I also noticed that they're ripping up the streets -again- to bury the telephone
wires they "forgot" to bury when they dug up all the sidewalks to bury
the electricity wires a year ago. And my friend questioned the inordinate amount
of empty buses racing along the Malecon and around the bend to the southbound
bridge. He also couldn't understand why he had to wait for that sexy lady's voice
to finish telling him to "marque asterisco ochenta y seis para recuperar
sus mensajes" every time he wanted to make a phone call… But all in
all, I believe that the overall impression with which he left Vallarta was most
positive. I would like to use this space to extend my
deepest sympathies to the family and friends of Jorge Ruiz. Jorge passed away
on Saturday, March 1st. He was a friend of mine -as he was to so many others-
and he will be sorely missed. May he rest in peace and may his family be spared
any further sorrow. I received an e-mail from one of our
readers where she reminded me that in the Holy Scriptures, the number 3 represents
the Holy Trinity. She thought of calling for a day of prayer for her country,
the U.S.A. to be held last Monday, March 3, 2003. It would be 03-03-03. She went
on to write, "Wouldn't it be great if all the Christians in the world or
at least in our country would stop what they are doing and pray on the same day?
We could make 03-03-03 God's Day. Faith is the doorway that all miracles come
through, but prayer is the key that unlocks the door. What about all stopping
activity together at 03:03 in the afternoon? Then it would be 03-03-03-03-03.
And that won't happen again for another thousand years (in 3003)." The idea
was great, but personally, I believe any day, anytime, is the right time to pray
for peace, don't you? Saint Patrick's Day is coming up
and so is Purim. What a wonderful time of year this is. I wish you all as great
a holiday as I had that week. And I hope that you too make time to leave your
lovely hotel to discover at least a little of the bounty this town has to offer.
And please don't be like those passengers who get off the cruise ships, head straight
for the Wal-Mart store and refuse to drink the water bottled in Mexico because
they were told by the ship's crew that the only bottled water safe to drink was
Evian. Didn't anyone tell them that Evian spelled backwards is "naïve"?
Or that the Evian spring dried up years ago? Hasta
luego. pvmomto3@hotmail.com Archives
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